Well I've learned a lot of things about installing the SN95 rear disk brakes on an 8.8" rear axles.  Some of these were learned the hard way and by spending more money than was necessary..  A very good reference is Matt 90GT who frequents the corral.net webpage which gives some great information on this.  I began by buying the SN95 calipers, brackets, rotors and anti-moan brackets off of ebay for about $200 to my door.  First lesson I learned was that these items are designed to be used with the SN95 rear axle and it's .75" longer than mine.  Mine are the Motorsports 5 lug conversion or the LH Ranger axle/RH Aerostar.

In order to set up this rear end while still keeping the car mobile I picked up another set of 5 lug axles from Fox Auto Parts for $50 each.

So at this point I had two options buy some SN95 axles and have the tires move out .75" or buy the caliper brackets from North Cobra to use these items with my axles for $150-$160.  I opted for the North Cobra bracket with the hardware for $160 which then caused me to need to buy the Cobra vented rear disks for this upgrade.  I purchased a set of new rotors at Murray's for  $58.99 each. (SKU # 702-9005, part # 54036)  

Another lesson I learned from this was that the standard SN95 rear disk rotor is a non-vented design.  It comes from the factory at about .550" thickness with a minimum turn allowance of about .5" thick.  This means these are virtually disposable rotors and will not be able to be turned.  But the good news is that they can be purchased new at Murray's for about $22 each.  So if your picking one of  these kits up save the shipping on the used rotors and just go and buy some new ones as the used ones are most likely shot anyway.

Well here goes the process.

As mentioned, I'm putting this rear end together complete so that the swap can be quick and hopefully painless.  So I've purchased all new brake hoses.  My car was originally equiped with single exhaust so the brake hose extended from the rear end to the line going to the Master Cylinder off of the passenger side axle tube.  Note that this hose is held in place via the breather vent.  This vent is special and also now obsolete at Ford.  Most new mustangs the brake hose is near the middle of the rear end with a bracket that bolts near the pinion.  For the 1984 model this was also the case if you had dual exhaust.  Since I didn't want to redo all my existing metal lines I opted to mix and match hardware to plumb this rear end like the factory.

Here's where we begin. A freshly rebuilt 8.8 on a stand waiting to be put together.

Here's the bracket from North Cobra attached to the axle with new ARP stainless hardware purchased from Totally Stainless.  Notice the offset in the bracket that allows for the Cobra/SN95 mustang brakes to work with the Fox length axles.

Now an easy task, installing the axles.  I have installed Moroso #46180 wheels studs that are 3" length and 1/2"-20 thread with a .615" shank.  I have also painted this axle end black which is not shown in the above picture.

Next comes the caliper bracket and rotor.  Well, here's another lesson learned.  Since the Cobra rotor is thicker I had a clearance problem in the area shown by the arrow.  I used a grinder and clearanced this out to allow the rotor to freely rotate.  These are the SN95 brackets so if you get Cobra brackets they may be wider and not need clearancing.  I have also since cleaned the protective coating off of the rotor and painted it black, except for the actual braking surface.

Next comes the caliper.  Another lesson learned.  The pads that I had purchased were too thick to go over the Cobra rotor.  I thought I had read that the cobra pads were thinner due to this fact but all the local parts stores show the Cobra and GT taking the same pad.  Also there was a nub on the back of the inboard pad that contacted the caliper piston didn't allow the caliper to come down into position.  My solution to this was to grind the outboard pad thinner...THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDED ACTION!   I also ground the nub off the back of the inner pad.  You will need a special tool to rotate the caliper piston into the bore to give clearance for new pads.  I bought mine at Murray's for around $8.  It fits on the end of a 3/8" ratchet.

On to Page 2 of my trials and tribulations of rear disk brake installation.

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